7 most common reasons why roofs leak

7 common reasons why roofs leak

Why do roofs leak – the 7 most common reasons.

Repairing roof leaks is the main reason that we continue to be a useful business for Sydney homeowners.

We still discover novel reasons for roofs to leak after two decades for fixing leaking roofs.

There are all types of reasons why roof leak.

Firstly, we will look at the 7 most common reasons that roofs leak in Sydney.

Then, we will follow with the question of why some roof leaks only if there is heavy rain…

… and perhaps give you a better understanding of what sort of roof repair are needed when your ceiling starts dripping water…

We have spend many years repairing leaking roofs in Sydney and we have a decent database containing the causes of roof leaks. Most roof leaks fall into the categories below. If your roof is leaking, then you will quite likely be able to find out the causes on this post.

There are always exceptions to the rule and some roof leaks are quite hard to track down and this is where we can be the most use to you. The uncategorised roof leaks will stretch our knowledge base and I come across these from time to time. Sometimes, I feel like throwing up my hands and giving up.

…..But the challenge of finding the cause(s) of a leak and fixing it is always met with dogged determination.

The 7 most common causes of roof leaks are (now there are 8 because the blocked gutter category rears its ugly head so often recently):

1) Skylights:

[su_photo_panel shadow=”0px 1px 2px #eeeeee” photo=”https://theroofingprofessionalswestside.com.au/wp-content/uploads/img-opt-5feb654c493d6-rusty-skylight-300×211-1.jpg”]Rusty skylights will cause roof leaks[/su_photo_panel]

As soon as holes are cut on a roof to put skylights in, the natural waterproof nature of roofs are violated. Some skylight installations leak the day they are cut into a roof. This is usually the result of a poor selection of skylights or a faulty installation. Then during its life, leaf blockage is the usual reason for skylight leaks. Finally, the life of a skylight is usually less than the roof – so old rusty skylights leak and will need replacement.

I have a FAQ page dedicated to leaking skylights … so pop over there if you think your skylight is the problem.

There is also a page about choosing skylights

2)  Broken roof tiles:

[su_photo_panel shadow=”0px 1px 2px #eeeeee” photo=”https://theroofingprofessionalswestside.com.au/wp-content/uploads/img-opt-5fed975f13bdc-cracked-terracotta-roof-tile-thumb-150×150-1.jpg”]Roof tiles will crack under load and this means leaks[/su_photo_panel]

Roof tiles do not often break by themselves. If you have overhanging trees, falling branches will break tiles. As soon as you let people walk on your tile roof, there is a danger of broken tiles. Children like throwing things and these things can break fragile roof tiles. The worst I have seen is freshly broken roof tiles caused by another roofer (doing a roof inspection and quote) and just left there. We always carry spare roof tiles around with us and replace any that we break during roof inspections… but it clearly seems that other roofers do not bother.

Broken roof tiles can be repaired (if a replacement is not handy)

A break on a roof tile can be quite difficult to trace if it is on the water (drainage) course. I have a post about these tricky leaks caused by broken water courses.

3) Rusty or blocked valleys:

[su_photo_panel shadow=”0px 1px 2px #eeeeee” photo=”https://theroofingprofessionalswestside.com.au/wp-content/uploads/img-opt-5fed97603501f-rusty-valley-150×150-1.jpg”]A rusted through valley will leak badly[/su_photo_panel]

While tile roofs do not rust, there are valleys on most roofs and in the old days, they just used galvanised metal valleys. These have a 20 to 30 years life … so rusted valleys are quite common on Sydney roofs.

Leaves and valleys do not go together. If you have leaves crammed into your valley, a sudden downpour will create a dam. A rush of water will spill over the edges of the valley and you will see water gushing out of your ceiling…

I have a page dedicated to roof valleys..  so pop over there if you have a valley problem.

4) Faulty tile ridge capping:

[su_photo_panel shadow=”0px 1px 2px #eeeeee” photo=”https://theroofingprofessionalswestside.com.au/wp-content/uploads/img-opt-5feb65228f111-weep-holes-needed-here-e1632464791871.jpg”]Leaks at ridge capping are very common[/su_photo_panel]

The bedding and pointing under tile ridge capping crack over time. Water seeps into the cracks and does three things.

…It can pool behind the bedding (if it is sealed to the roof tile) on the roof tile and eventually overflow into the roof cavity (this is why weep holes are essential).

…It can run along the back of the bedding, find a drainage path along the tile and seep out again – with out causing any harm (the usually case).

…Or it can run along the back of the bedding and NOT find a release drainage path, but the edge of the roof tile. The result is a leak. These leaks are hard to spot without removing the ridge capping first.

If you want to find out more about weep holes and ridge capping repair work < go to my dedicated pages on this subject.

5) Chimneys:

[su_photo_panel shadow=”0px 1px 2px #eeeeee” photo=”https://theroofingprofessionalswestside.com.au/wp-content/uploads/img-opt-5fed976299816-chimney-fault-150×150-1.jpg”]Leaks at chimneys are very common[/su_photo_panel]

A chimney is another hole on the roof that needs to be waterproofed correctly. The flashings around chimneys deteriorate and often cause leaks. Chimney pots break.

Most tile roofs have lead soaker flashings on the upstream side and the lead will crack after a while. A simple fix is to reseal with silicone sealant. The expensive alternative is to replace the flashing with a new one.

Some chimneys have hidden soaker flashings along the side and these can also rust out.

6) Faulty roof flashings:

[su_photo_panel shadow=”0px 1px 2px #eeeeee” photo=”https://theroofingprofessionalswestside.com.au/wp-content/uploads/img-opt-5fed97638cf4b-1-oxford-rear-gable-gap-in-flashing-150×150-1.jpg”]Metal roof flashings often leak[/su_photo_panel]

The edges of roofs have to be waterproofed by flashings. It takes a lot of roofing experience to be able to detail complicated roof flashings so that they look good and do not leak. If a new roof leaks, then the roofer usually has made a mistake on the roof flashing. We can usually gauge the quality of the roof installation by how the flashings are finished off.

7) Rusty roofs:

[su_photo_panel shadow=”0px 1px 2px #eeeeee” photo=”https://theroofingprofessionalswestside.com.au/wp-content/uploads/img-opt-5fed9764b3ec4-rusty-roof-150×150-1.jpg”]Leaks at rusty roof[/su_photo_panel]

This reason may seem quite obvious. It is easy to see if a roof is rusty. But it takes a while between when a roof begins to rust and when holes form and water starts dripping. Also, often, the rusty areas are very localised and hidden. In these instances, only close inspection will reveal the rust spots at laps and under flashings.

8) Blocked gutters:

[su_photo_panel shadow=”0px 1px 2px #eeeeee” photo=”https://theroofingprofessionalswestside.com.au/wp-content/uploads/img-opt-5fed9765d8280-blocked-gutters-150×150-1.jpg”]Leaks at rusty gutter[/su_photo_panel]

I am adding this to my original 7.

Blocked box gutters  can cause havoc if there are no overflows to act as a relief valve system. If you experience flooding inside your house and you have a box gutter – then it is quite likely a blocked outlet in your box gutter. The temporary solution is simple – just clear off the blockage. Long term, a system to prevent the blockage and overflow protection is needed.

Normal Eaves gutters are often left full of leaves and  this will start a nice garden in the gutter as well as overflowing gutters. They do not normally cause problems with leaks into the house. The exception is when the eaves extend over windows. Overflowing water will run along the eaves and fall onto the head of the window – causing a cascade of water along the inside of the window.

So why do some roofs only leak in heavy rain?

Some roofs are strange. It takes heavy rain to produce a leak. Just the light shower does not do the trick

I get a lot of enquiries through this website where homeowners make a mention that their roof leaks only during heavy rain

In my experience, roof leaks can be separated into 3 categories:

  1. The roof leaks every time it rains;
  2. The roof only leaks when it rains heavy;
  3. Only prolonged rain makes the roof leak.

On this post, I will examine the second category of roof leaks.

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The most common reasons why roofs only leak during heavy rain are:

  • No sarking to catch leaks driven in by heavy rain
  • Leaking low pitched tile roofs with sarking
  • Heavy rain (and blockage) causing the valleys to overflow
  • Flat profile roof tiles not coping under heavy water load
  • Downpipe spreaders dumping too much water over leaking roof tiles
  • Dirty water courses overflowing during heavy rain
  • Flat corrugated metal roof leaking at laps
  • Top end of roof sheets leaking due to ‘turn – up’ problems
  • Box gutters not draining quickly enough in heavy storms
  • Eaves gutters overflowing into wall cavity
  • Debris blockage (together with heavy rain) causing leakage at skylight

Leaks on tile roofs only when it rains heavy

No sarking under the roof tiles.

If you go into your ceiling cavity and you can see the underside of the roof tiles – then you have no sarking. Stay there during heavy rain and you will feel a fine mist coming through the gaps between the tiles. Usually, this is not a big problem because it is not enough moisture to wet the ceiling. And there are no ceiling stains.

It is not the lack of sarking that causes the leak in heavy rain. It is because there is nothing under the roof tiles to catch the leak and drain it away.

If you do get stains on your ceiling, it makes our lives (as roof leak busters) a lot easier. The leak is right above the ceiling stain!

Low pitched roof tiles.

Roof tiles start to do poorly when the roof pitch gets less than 20 degrees. Manufacturers of roof tiles have limits on roof pitches because of this. Yet, many roofers ignore these for the sake of ‘looks’. To compensate, tile manufacturers relax the pitch requirement – provided sarking is installed. But this does not stop the leaks. The sarking will hold water until it gives way and pours water into the house.

It does need heavy rain to overflow the tops and edges of the roof tiles. If you don’t have sarking, then the ceiling gets wet quite immediately. If you have sarking, then it is quite possible that the leak is contained and you don’t know that your roof is leaking.

Overflowing roof valleys.

Leaves and valleys don’t work well together.

During long dry spells, leaves (and perhaps other debris) gather in the valleys. The roof tiles along the sides of the valley also help in trapping the debris. Then you get the storm with the heavy rain. Water rushes down the valley and hit the clump of debris.

Whilst some of the water can percolate through this rubbish, the heavy rush of water packs the rubbish tighter together and the water floods over the edges of the valley – and into your house.

Flat profiled roof tiles.

Roof tile manufacturers pander to consumers need for ‘modern, fashionable’ roofs.

The ‘slate’ look is still quite fashionable and this brings about the increased use of flat roof tiles. Why go with the expense and limitations of slate – when you can use a flat tile and achieve a similar look?

I feel sorry for the designers of these flat roof tiles. You just cannot make a roof tile flat, and also have it being durable and highly serviceable. (I will be doing a special post on flat roof tiles soon).

Flat roof tiles have no defined troughs for water to flow. In heavy rains, water runs uniformly across the face of the tile instead of along the trough/valleys. This means more water load on the water courses. And since these water courses trap more debris and are prone to breakage, water leaks along the edges of the tiles are quite common.

Another problem with flat profiles roof tiles occur when the side of a roof meet a wall. Water often run across the tile, under the wall flashing and into the roof cavity.

Downpipe spreaders.

On two storey roofs, the top gutters usually discharge onto the lower roofs via downpipe spreaders.

Roof tiles are designed to carry rainwater up to a certain rainfall intensity – assuming that this rain falls directly on the roof tile and the roof is of a certain length. Even though the length of downstairs roofs are usually quite short, a downpipe spreader can dump over 10 x the design carrying capacity of the roof tile.

The water courses will leak, and on concrete roof tiles, water will also leak over the upstream edge of the tile.

Dirty or broken watercourses.

 If the roof is in a tree zone, leaves are washed into the watercourses and over time, this leads to clogging and eventually, blockage during heavy rain. The resultant overflow will cause leaks.

Certain roof tiles have very fragile watercourses, and these will break. Since the watercourses are under the overlap of the adjacent roof tile, it is not easy to spot. Whilst the leaks from clogged and broken watercourses can be minor during light rain. It can get substantial during downpours.

Leaks on metal roofs during heavy rain

Corrugated low pitched roofs.

The standard corrugated roof is designed to be laid on standard pitched roofs. The roof sheeting manufacturers state that the minimum slope is 5 degrees. Build a corrugated roof flatter than 5 degrees (It is quite common), and it will overflow during heavy rain.

The laps on the roof sheets get flooded when excessive water fill the corrugations and overflow under the laps. The screw holes at the laps will also start leaking.

Sometimes, wind will also drive water over the upstream ends of the corrugated roof sheets – even though they are turned up. The combination of a valley discharging onto a flat metal roof that has faulty transition flashings will cause a roof leak that many builders and roofers find hard to track down and repair.

Inadequate turn-ups.

The upstream ends of ALL roof sheets are supposed to be ‘turned up’ to form dams that guard against overflowing. Heavy rain will cause overflowing if there are not done or not done properly.

Some roofers don’t have the proper ‘turn-up’ tool for the low pitched ‘Trimdek’ and ‘Kliplok’ profiled roof sheets and the ‘dam’ becomes ineffective when heavy rain, leaf debris and wind combine to create the overflowing pond.

Valleys.

 Low pitched valleys or valleys blocked by debris will overflow in heavy rain. Valleys on flat ‘kliplok’ roofs need custom designs to provide adequate water carrying capacity. Otherwise, they will overflow frequently.

Other roof elements that can only leak during heavy rain

Box gutters

If you have a box gutter, then it must be cleaned regularly and have some overflow provisions. Otherwise, it will suddenly send a flood of water into your living space during heavy rain.

Most box gutters discharge water via downpipes. It is vital that the openings into the downpipes are not blocked. Some people put mesh covers over the downpipe inlets – only for them to choke up with debris when heavy rain comes around.

Perimeter gutters.

Normally, if you have good eaves, you will not get water into the house (even if the gutters themselves are overflowing). If you have no eaves or you have the deep fascia gutter, then the perimeter gutter will overflow in heavy rain and get into the wall cavity. From there, it appears in the house at some ‘funny’ places.

Skylights.

Most gutter cleaners don’t clean around the base of the skylights. This makes skylight bases the worst maintained element on a roof. Years of gradual trapping and accumulation of leaves between the roof and the sides of the skylight suddenly forms a dam during heavy rain. Water will shoot over the outer edge of the skylight base and into the ceiling below in a big rush of water.

 

How does knowing the intensity of the rain when a roof leaks help in finding the cause?

Some roofs only leak during heavy rain and there is usually only one reason why this happens.

•            Water flow exceeds the capacity of the roof elements.

When we go out tracking the cause of roof leaks, It helps a lot if we know ‘WHEN’ the roof starts leaking. If a roof only leaks in heavy rain, then the above reasons come to mind first and It gives us an easy starting point to successfully track down the cause(s) of the leak(s).

If a roof leaks whether it has rained heavily or not – then there is a good chance that there is an easily identifiable (eg Broken roof tile or hole in roof) cause. Every roofer should be able to find and fix this problem easily.

The most challenging category is ‘leaks only during prolonged heavy rain’. What this means is that the water entry point is quite small (and therefore needs prolonged heavy rain to cause a leak) and perhaps there are elements under the roof that hold the water leak for a while.

This makes the cause of the leak very difficult to identify at first glance. Most roofers will get ‘stumped’ by this category of leaks.

Over the years, I have discovered many reasons for these types of leaks, and I will cover these on a future post.

 

In the meantime, the next step after finding out why your roof is leaking – is to get it repaired by the professionals. 

If you are in Sydney, The Roofing Professionals Westside have been repairing roofs in Sydney since the late 1990s. So, if you are Sydney-sider looking to do some roof repairs on your roof, start your roof repair journey HERE.

 

Comments

65 responses to “7 most common reasons why roofs leak”

  1. Janet Morrissey Avatar
    Janet Morrissey

    Love your website but I live in Wollongong with a 55 yo tile roof that is in need of ridgecap repointing. Do you know a reputable roofer in Wollongong area?
    Have been aproached by a few guys cruising the area but they seem too pushy and wanting instant agreement.
    Regards
    Janet

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Janet,

      Sorry, I do not know of any good roofers in the Wollongong area who I can recommend.

      My advice is to keep away from guys who come ‘door knocking’ and offer special deals for ‘sign up now’ conditions.
      Just tell them to leave you their website and contact details so that you can check them out first …and see how they respond.
      A roofer who is any good will gladly give you that information – where else the dodgy ones will usually come up with all the reasons for not checking them out first.

      All the best.

      Jack Yuen

      1. Carl Cantrell Avatar

        I have to agree with Jack. As much as possible stay from these people who are offering instant services or asking you to sign up. It’s better to ask for their website first so you can check about what services they offer. It’s also important to read online review, if there are any, about a particular roofer or service company. Great post by the way and advance Happy New Year!

  2. Daniel Parker Avatar

    Awesome article. After researching the cause of leaking roofs, I totally agree with what this article has to say. I do believe that cleaning the gutters is underrated. People should perform monthly checkups on their gutters; this will ensure that there are no buildups and unwanted flooding. Yes, this can cause roof leaks.

  3. Leviticus Bennett Avatar

    I like that you added number eight to your original seven. My house has a large tree over it, so the leaves frequently fall on my roof. I have to clean out the gutters often like you said to prevent long term damage.

  4. Connie Avatar
    Connie

    Hi Jack

    I live in Melbourne. Do you know any good roofer in Melbourne that you would recommend? Also, is it a good idea to re bed and re point in summer? Does hot weather make a different? Thanks

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Connie,

      Sorry, I do not have any good contacts in Melbourne.
      Bedding and pointing can be done in summer. The bedding goes stiff a bit quicker and the pointing solidifies a bit quicker.
      It is the roofers who will feel the heat more than the cement or the pointing!

      Jack

  5. Chantal Avatar
    Chantal

    Anyone know any good people to look at my roof in townsville

  6. Hugo Preyer Avatar
    Hugo Preyer

    We have a color bond roof, when it rains with a strong wind the water blows back up under the flashing and also back up the valleys and then the water hits the insulation which soaks up the water, my query is there something we can put under the overhang of color bond to stop the water being blown back.
    Regards Hugo

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Hugo,
      There is a range of foam products to suit various roof profiles that you can tuck under the flashings.
      You can also use foam along the valleys.
      See your local Bunnings if you want to do it yourself.

      Jack

  7. Ying Avatar
    Ying

    Hi Jack,

    I have recently replaced the valley irons with colourbond, installed dry with valley seal to bottom of 2 valleys.

    When I inspect the work done, would I be able to see the ‘valley seal’? If so, how can I tell if the valley seal is inplace?

    Thanks.
    Ying

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Ying,

      We don’t normally install ‘valley seals’.
      Just lift the roof tiles up on either side of the valley and you will be able to see if there is anything there.

      Jack

  8. Connie Avatar
    Connie

    Hi Jack,

    The roofer re beaded and re pointed the roof for my house. I have noticed that on the horizontal part of the roof, the first row of the tiles where the ridge caps sat, there are four to five tiles on that row not touching the top of the next row of tiles underneath them. There is room enough to tuck a finger in. The top tiles are about 10 mm above the surface of the tiles underneath.

    Does it need to be fixed? If so, how and what the roofer should do now? More importantly, would it cause leaking?

    Thanks.
    Connie

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Connie,
      When the batten support behind the top row of tiles is too low, the tiles sit on a lower pitch. They lay flatter and this is the cause of the gap to the tiles on the row below.
      Whether it is a problem depends on the pitch of the tiles under the capping. If it is steeper than around 20 degrees… it will be ok.
      It is not the 10mm gap you mention that will be the problem. Just the pitch of the top tile.
      Also, if the top tile is not a full tile and it has been cut to suit the ridge capping… then it is critical to have weep holes.

      If it is not complying… then the solution is to remove the ridge capping and relay the tiles on additional timber battens to achieve the correct pitch. …followed by re-bedding (with weep holes if required) and re-pointing.

      Hope this helps.

      Jack

  9. Connie Avatar
    Connie

    Hi Jack,

    Also, does cement cause rusting on colourbond?

    Thanks again.
    Connie

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Connie,
      ‘Cement’ is caustic and it will react with colorbond and potentially cause premature rust.

      Jack

  10. Connie Avatar
    Connie

    Hi Jack,

    Thanks for the replies.

    Following your comments, there are old mortar between the edge of the tiles and the side of the gable. The side of the gable where the mortar sits on is metal and it appears they are Colorbond (but it could be any other painted metal.) The old mortar has loosen up and some of them broking up into small pieces.
    What material should be used to repair the old mortar? should the old mortar/the edge tiles be re-bed and repointed? What material should be used that will not cause rusting over time?

    Thanks again.
    Connie

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Connie,

      Often, the gables of a tile roof have the roof tiles bedded on a metal flashing with a fibro strip. The mortar sits on the fibro strip and not on the metal flashing.
      Repair of loose mortar will involve removing the loose stuff and replacing with fresh cement mortar – which sits on the fibro strip and not on the metal flashing.

      Jack

  11. bob Avatar
    bob

    Hi Jack,
    Thanks – great points! I’m having a colorbond roof completely replaced at the moment by a company with a long history and good reputation. They seems to have done a good job overall but there is one sheet where they have put three roofing bolts through the “dip” in the colorbond (i.e. down in one of the valleys of the sheet rather than on the top of the curves).

    It will be under flashing (not yet installed), but the sheet extends up beyond where it’s flashed, so there will definitely be water running down there.
    See pic here: https://ibb.co/HCMCypF
    I always thought this was number one roofing no-no… is there ever a time when you would say it’s ok to do it this way?
    Thanks again

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Bob,
      Looks like the roofer put the screws to hold the edge of the sheet down prior to putting the barge flashing on.
      The barge flashing should cover the edge of the roof where the screws are.. and the screws should never get wet.
      It is a tricky detail and I usually continue the barge flashing up to the ridge flashing with a tray flashing.
      If there is no tray, the upstream end of the barge is usually silicone sealed to stop water going under the flashing.
      … not my preferred way, but can perform OK.

      Hope this helps.

      Jack

  12. bob Avatar
    bob

    Thank you – very helpful.
    Cheers

  13. John Morgan Avatar
    John Morgan

    Hi Jack I’m having troubles with several leaks around my tiled roof. The tiles appear intact and it only happens in heavy rain. The water seems to be somehow getting up under the edge of the tiles. Does that sound right and what can I do?

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi John,

      If you have concrete roof tiles at less than a 20 degree pitch… wind will force water up the tile and cause dripping off the upstream edge of the tile and onto the sarking or roof cavity.

      Jack

  14. Helena Avatar

    Had watermark on the lounge ceiling and cornice in the hallway. First-ever as repointing and bedding were done two years ago. The insurance company put a drone over the roof and said it was neglected and gutters were blocked. I arranged an independent inspection and was told by a roofer that the roof was in good condition. We had torrential rain and 90klm winds on the coast a month ago. Would this cause water stains and what do you think of drones being used for this purpose? Gutters were not blocked nor rusted. Wrong photos looked at?

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Helena,

      Drones are great for taking photos. But they are not capable of close-up inspections and removing tiles to check for evidence of water penetration.
      If you have a relatively low pitched roof, the tiles will leak on the upstream edge in high winds.
      Hope this helps.
      Jack

  15. Hayden Avatar
    Hayden

    Hi,
    Over my back deck I have a flat tin roof that joins up to the main house tiles. Unfortunately, during heavy rain with a strong northerly wind, my house leaks water into the lounge room. I suspect the wind is forcing water back up and under the tiles as 1. The tin roof pitch is very slight and 2. The tin roof in this section has a depression that would hold a small amount of water. The leak only happens with heavy rain and strong northerly wind, and only in a small section where the tiled roof meets the tin roof.

    What can I use to stop this leak without having to replace the depressed tin and/or re-pitch the tin roof?

    Hayden

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Hayden,
      If the problem is wind driven water, one solution is to install a foam infill just under the edge of the existing tile flashing. Then install another piece of ‘extension flashing’ on top of the existing tile flashing. The purpose of this is to extend the width of the flashing so that the wind driven rain has further to travel before it reaches the upstream end of the roof sheets.
      And on the way up the roof sheet, the water meets the foam infills – which forms another barrier to slow down the travel of the wind driven rain.

      This could be worth a try.

      Jack

  16. Adrian Young Avatar
    Adrian Young

    Hi Jack
    We have a problem with a leak in our roof
    We are on the Central Coast and have a small leak somewhere.
    Strata arranged for a company to replace 6 tiles and repoint the to hips facing the beach
    We then had the gyprockers in to replace the ceiling and the gyprock was still damp with no obvious sains on the top or bottom of the ceiling sheets
    It is a tiled roof, we have sarking & large plastic storm clips
    Any advice as the roofers sent dont

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Adrian,

      Are your tiles flat in profile? These tiles have problems with water courses overflowing, or broken water courses.
      Is the leak near a downpipe spreader? This is often a common cause of leaks.
      Is the leak near a valley? This is a common problem.

      Jack

  17. Jeffrey Avatar
    Jeffrey

    Hi Jack,

    I think we are having the problem you mentioned above. The tiles are flat, and the leak is near a valley, and mostly happen when the rain is heavy like this week in Sydney. Could you kindly provide any advice? Really appreciate.

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Jeffrey,

      Usually the best option is to replace the flat section of the roof with a colorbond metal roof.

      Jack

  18. David Fairburn Avatar
    David Fairburn

    Greetings Jack, Can you suggest a roofer in Sydney to look at fixing an intermittent leak in a tile roof and cliplock extension join. I think there is a valley there that is leaking in heavy rain, thank you, David.

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi David,
      I am 100% biased.
      We are the best roofers in Sydney to fix your roof leak.

      JCK

  19. Don Anderson Avatar
    Don Anderson

    Hi Jack, very informative. I live in Newcastle near sea. My 15yo concrete tile house leaks only moderate amounts only after prolonged heavy rain. I can see it dripping through a nail hole in sarking near a join between two pitches. This is directly below a skylight which is much higher up. Numerous roofers and skylight professionals have found nothing wrong. Do I need to replace all tiles in the area and/or remove sarking so I can find the leak? Can you put metal or rubber over tiles?

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Don,
      I suggest investing in a good roofer to remove the roof tiles in the area of the leak,
      Once this is done, the source of the leak should be obvious.
      If the pitch of the roof is adequate, a traditional repair is all that is needed.
      I do not recommend putting a metal roof or rubber membrane over the roof tiles.

      Hope this helps.

      Jack

  20. JJA Avatar
    JJA

    Hi Jack. Good article. A lot of logic there which makes sense. I have a new skylight and I think something has not gone to plan on the instal. Very heavy rain produces a leak. Can I seal/cover the gap between the skylight and the concrete roof tiles? I know the velux has a built in flashing system, but my though is that by covering this gap, it would reduce the reliance on the flashing as little water would get in. Any thoughts?

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi JA,
      Velux skylights are highly engineered – but they have many weaknesses.
      The main problem with them is that installers don’t know how to put these intricate skylights in properly.
      That means we come across more leaking Velux skylights than any other skylights.
      Traditional Velux skylights are meant to be installed on roofs with steep pitches.
      Now that low pitch roofs are the fashion, these skylights are just not suitable any more.

      Velux has responded in the last few years by bringing out ‘flat roof’ versions (aimed at metal roofs)- which no longer use their own base flashings.
      Skylight companies like ‘Skyspan’ in Sydney do a roaring trade in custom base flashings for Velux skylights. And these work well.

      If you have a Velux on a tile roof, check that your roof is steep enough (I recommend a minimum of 30 degrees).
      If you tick ‘YES’ to this requirement, then you have a chance. Keep the base of the Velux free of leaves and debris, and it should not leak.
      If it does, then the flashings have not been installed correctly. Get someone who know what they are doing to fix this.

      There is no need to cover the gaps because it blocks off maintenance access and can also introduce other leakage paths.

      Hope this helps,
      Jack

  21. Fatima Avatar
    Fatima

    Awesome information Jack, Thanks for sharing.
    I have a question and would appreciate if I could get your thought.
    We had a leaking roof due to ridge cap problem. Home 15 years old. did the washing, repointing, sealing and painting.
    The leaks stopped but during the rain there is always water stain coming from edge of the tiles everywhere but no droplets.
    The roofer says it is normal but we checked the ceiling before the repair during the rain and definitely it was not the case at that time.
    Would appreciate if you share your thought with us about this situation.

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Fatima,
      It looks like some of the water courses are blocked by dirt or paint. This can happen during a roof restoration.
      It also happens if a lot of leaves fall on your roof over a period of time.
      The roof tiles can be lifted and the debris cleaned off to stop the seepage- this is quite tedious…
      Hope this helps.

      Jack

  22. rick Avatar
    rick

    i have leaks in my roof when the rain is a bit heavier, i have no sarking so it drips. The tiles have a clip on them, could this cause the drip, should i take them off. What is the fix in this situation, does sarking need to be put in, replace tiles etc, i am not sure what to do here?

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Rick,

      Sometimes, roof tiles are secured to the battens with clips rather than nails. The clips do not cause leaks.
      I suspect that the tiles are laid too flat (less than 25 degrees pitch) and roof tiles leak in this situation.
      Also, if you have a two storey house, check if the leak is under a downpipe spreader. Excess discharge from a spreader will cause leaks.

      Hope this helps.

      Jack

  23. Bryan Frew Avatar
    Bryan Frew

    Hi Jack – Thanks for all the information you provide on your website. It takes a great deal of work to maintain your site so I appreciate all your effort. You recently responded to an email of mine but I thought I’d ask my follow-up question in the public forum as your answer could be useful to others.

    I live at Byron Bay. We get very heavy rain here – recently falls of greater than 150ml in an hour. We have a combination tile and colorbond roof. We have leaks on the front verandah during heavy rain. The leaks occur along the supporting beam on the verandah.

    You suggested (from the photo) that the roof angle may be insufficient (5deg or less) on the colorbond roof and that water is leaking through the overlap and maybe the screws.

    I’ve done a few measurements and the roof angle is about 6 to 7 deg. I guess that with the volume of rain we get the water could easily flow between the overlapping colorbond sheets. Is this correct?

    I have 2 questions. (1) What can I do to fix the problem? Is installing Kliploc the only solution?; and (2) We are about to have solar panels installed on the colorbond and the tile roof. Will this help our problem? Could this result in less water falling and settling on the roof?

    Thanks Jack!!

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Bryan,
      During very heavy rain, the laps on corrugated sheets can leak.
      The other weak area is the upstream ends. The valleys of the sheets can only be turned up about 15mm. When heavy rain cause a river to run off the tile roof, it hits the junction at the metal roof.
      If the tile flashing is not wide enough, the joint is overloaded and water flows over the turn-ups and into the ceiling cavity.
      You have a raked ceiling (that will drain leaks towards the gutter) and that may be why you see leaks at the supporting beam and not at the joint between the two roofs.

      If you will be installing solar, I recommend replacing the roof with ‘kliplok’. The support frame for the solar panels sit on the metal roof and debris and water will get trapped between the frame and the valleys of the corrugated sheets and cause worse problems with leaks at laps.
      Kliplok have large ‘pans’ that do not block up the water flow. These pans can be turned up about 35mm on the upstream end to stop overflowing at the upstream ends.
      The volume of water on your roof does not change when there are solar panels. There will just be large concentrations (waterfalls) of water running off the edges of the solar panels onto the roof – which the roof now have to cope with.
      Hope this helps.

      Jack

  24. Dev Avatar
    Dev

    Hi Jack, for 21.5 roof pitch, will you recommend flat or traditional curved profile concrete tiles? Also do we need sarking for 21.5 pitch. I am not sure if sarking not installed properly, rather helping it may cause damage or leak? Thanks.

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Dev,
      21.5 degrees is quite a shallow pitch for concrete roof tiles. Therefore sarking is recommended.
      Sarking has other advantages of preventing large leaks when roof tiles crack, heat resistance, restrict debris/dust entry into the roof cavity and moisture entry (and some others). So, all tile roofs should have sarking.
      I think flat profile roof tiles is an example of bad design resulting from consumer preference for form over function.
      The flat profile allows water to flow fairly evenly over the surface of the tile – rather than forcing water to flow in a pre=determined path (like on curved roof tiles). When one lets water run everywhere, one is inviting overflowing at the perimeter of the tiles.
      Check out my post on some issues with flat tiles by the link below:
      https://theroofingprofessionalswestside.com.au/the-dangers-of-using-flat-profile-concrete-roof-tiles/

      Hope this helps.

      Jack

      1. Dev Avatar
        Dev

        Thanks so much Jack for your reply. As I am not in bush fire area and roof pitch is more than 20 degrees, so the builder has not included the sarking. upon checking, builder advised sarking is upgrade at $2500 which I can pay but not sure how to ensure that builder installs it properly. Can you also advise if anti-ponding boards are needed to be installed and is there is any need of whirlybirds? Based on your response, now I will stick to the curved profile.

        1. Jack Yuen Avatar

          Hi Dev,
          I will recommend sarking AND anti-ponding boards for the best outcome.
          Any good roofer should be able to install sarking and anti-ponding correctly.
          Just like every secondary school student should know their ‘TIMES’ table….

          I usually do not recommend whirlybirds.

          Jack

          1. Dev Avatar
            Dev

            Many thanks Jack for you response. Much appreciated.

  25. Tim Avatar
    Tim

    Hi. I have a terracotta tiled roof on an extension just 4 years old. In heavy rain water flows out from the join of the first and second weather boards under the eaves and down the outer wall and leaks through the top of the aluminum doors. Why does water leak here when the eaves are 3-400mm wide. If Gutters over flow shouldn’t the water just overflow over the gutters at the edge of the eaves like it does in the 1950s part of the house

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Tim,
      A terracotta tiled roof on an extension usually means tiles laid fairly ‘flat’ (and under the manufacturer’s recommendations of 18 degree minimum pitch).
      If this is the case, the roofer would have installed sarking under the roof tiles – hoping that this will drain the leaks into the gutter.
      If however, there is a fault or gap in the sarking, the water leaks have found a way into your eaves before it has a chance to drain into the gutter.
      If you remove the roof tiles above where there is a leak – you will probably see signs of this happening.

      Jack

      1. Tim Avatar
        Tim

        Thanks for the reply Jack, I will see if I can investigate if that is the reason. I am in Wollongong so it is a pity you do not service this area, I would have been happy to pay you to have a look. I imagine you are pretty busy at the moment anyway with all this rain

  26. brenda Avatar
    brenda

    i had a new roof put on 4 yrs ago and it starting leaking on and off last year. i have had a few different people to fix the problem. now they are thinking the problem is the overhang. can i put a overhang on my existing roof to see if that corrects the leak?

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Brenda,

      If the overhang has been pointed to as the cause of the leaks – then I am thinking that the new roof is a ‘flat’ roof.
      Any repairs will depend on the profile of the roof sheets and the pitch.
      If you can post some pictures, it will help me come up with a suggestion.

      Jack

      1. Brenda Wright Avatar
        Brenda Wright

        Sorry I just saw your msg cause I was away for just over a week. My roof isn’t completely flat but it very low and doesn’t have much of a slant. I will try to take a picture.

      2. Nas Avatar
        Nas

        Hi John,
        I live on a ground floor and my living area ceiling only leaks after 2-3days of rain. The leakage is only around the walls and only after 2-3 days of heavy rain. It’s ok after a single day of heavy rain. I went to my neighbour upstairs balcony which is on top the leaking area to check whether it’s flooded and if that’s causing the leaks but it was not flooded.

        I have notified stratand they have organised for someone to come and have a look but it’s taking forever because of the recent rains.

        From your experience, what do you think could be causing this leaks.

        Thanks in advance.
        Nas

        1. Jack Yuen Avatar

          Hi Nas,
          I suspect that the membrane on the balcony has failed and this is causing the leak.

          Jack

  27. Michael Avatar
    Michael

    Hi Jack,

    Love what you are doing! We have a double brick 2-story townhouse which seems to have water ingress during heavy storms which will leave the floors to the south facing walls damp on the upper level and the ceiling to the floor directly below damp. We’ve recently had the south facing balcony updated and covered the whole balcony and south facing walls in a waterproof membrane to minimise the bricks from being saturated in water during heavy downpour. Sadly, the water is still finding its way in, and I suspect it is the roof. Any ideas? We’re in the Shires and would love to have you guys come take a look but sadly you are transitioning out of this business.

    Michael

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Michael,
      It seems like you may have a leak from the roof that runs down the sarking into your wall cavity.
      You need a good roofer to look into it.

      Jack

  28. Fab Avatar
    Fab

    Hi Jack, we have 3 small ceiling leak stains which have appeared. We think they appeared after heavy rain. There are no cracked tiles and the gutters are fine. We have had several tradies have a look. They think it might be due to heavy rain entering through the gaps between the roof tiles. Is there any solution to this please?

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Fab,

      I suspect the leaks are coming in under the ridge capping (lack of weep holes)…

      Jack

  29. Werner Avatar
    Werner

    Hi Jack , your site is very informative. Hope you can help with this question. My roof was painted about a year ago . I’ve notice 3 places that are leaking . 2 are sort of in the middel of rooms and one is close to the and running down the wall . I have gone into the roof cavity to check and take some pictures . It seems like the water is coming in on the valley profile on the tile where the tile overlaps to the next tile .

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Werner,

      Roof painters come in different versions.

      Some save by applying a light coat of paint (downside is that paint fading is quicker).
      Some think that they are doing the ‘right thing’ by applying multiple coats of paint (downside is compromising water drainage paths).

      If the leaks are under the ridge capping – then the weep holes have been blocked by the thick paint and are not functioning any more.

      If the leaks are elsewhere (like your photos), it is probably because the paint has formed a membrane between the nose (bottom) of the tile and the top of the adjacent downstream tile. Any trapped water cannot flow down the next tile (yellow arrows on attached picture).

      The trapped water ponds and overflows the top of the tile like your pictures.

      1. Werner Avatar
        Werner

        Awesome thank you so much !

  30. Sam Avatar
    Sam

    Respected Sir,

    My roof has pinhole leaks from the nails fixed to .wood through the tiles. During prolonged rain, this causes pinhole water droplets to come through from different tiles although in the same section of the roof. Please advise on the course of action for this. Thank you.

    Regards,
    Sam

    1. Jack Yuen Avatar

      Hi Sam,

      This is a common problem with flat profile roof tiles (can also happen with other tiles) that are laid too ‘flat’.
      Just seal around the nail to block the hole (silicone sealant) .

      This you tube video mentions the problems with nail holes and the fix.
      https://youtu.be/DPf4i4G47GE

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